Angélina
Situated under the cloisters, this glorious 1903 belle époque tearoom is renowned for its wonderful African hot chocolate, served with a pot of whipped cream. If you're traveling with kids, accommodating staff make them welcome here. If you're traveling toute seule (on your own), pick up a book from Gagliani, France's first English-language bookstore, at neighboring 224 rue de Rivoli.
Au Grand Appétit
The 'Big Appetite' offers light fare such as miso soup and cereals as well as strength-building dishes for big eaters. The menu is on a big blackboard and features delicious vegetarian dishes served with cereals, raw and cooked veges and seaweed. The ingredients are 100% organic and cooked in filtered water. An excellent organic and macrobiotic shop is attached.
Au Pied de Cochon
The former halles (markets; described by French novelist Emile Zola as the 'belly of Paris') may have shifted out of the centre nearly half a century ago, but this enduring brasserie specializing in pig's trotters still opens around the clock, just as it did when marketeers started and ended their day here. Trotters aside, there are hearty breakfasts and onion soup.
Au Rocher de Cancale
Rue Montorgueil was the oyster market of the old halles , and this timber-lined restaurant opened in 1846 is its legacy. Virtually unchanged since the days of the markets, there's a choice of three plats du jour plus two chef's suggestions, alongside oysters from Cancale, Brittany's foremost oyster port. Everything here, including the wine, is great value.
Aux Négociants
The Montmartre known and loved by Charles Aznavour is alive and well at this jovial, locally patronised wine bar serving rib-sticking classics such as bœuf bourguignon.
Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville
This caféteria , on the 5th floor of the Hôtel de Ville department store, is a kid-friendly (and wallet-friendly) choice, offering a carvery and desserts such as parfaits. There's also eye-level views of the statues adorning the Hôtel de Ville's roofline.
Blue Elephant
The Blue Elephant is Paris' most famous upmarket Thai restaurant and part of an international chain, with a dozen branches in cities round the world from Brussels to Beirut. Although it has become a little too successful for its own good, the indoor tropical rainforest and well-prepared spicy dishes are still worth the somewhat inflated prices.
Brasserie Bofinger
To experience brasserie dining in all its Art Nouveau splendour, there's no better place in town than here. The historic Bofinger's food is first-rate, its service genuine, and a seat under its glass cupola sublime. Past diners span from Mikhail Gorbachev to Madonna, but it's the little snippets of Parisian life you see around you as you dine that make the experience unforgettable.
Brasserie de l'Ile St-Louis
Renowned for Alsatian cuisine, with various dishes doused in riesling, you might just as easily be in a winstub on Strasbourg's Grand Île a few kilometres from the German border - were it not for the views of Notre Dame from the terrace. Even if you're not dining, it's a spectacular setting for a drink.
Café Branly
Drink in the views of the Eiffel Tower while sipping an espresso or wine on the terrace of the Musée du Quai Branly's café, amid reflecting pools and gardens. Lunches, such as a tartine Parisienne of Parisian ham, Emmental cheese, fresh tomatoes and mustard-butter, offer a light alternative (for your wallet, too) to dining in style upstairs at Les Ombres.
Café Marly
The glittering views of IM Pei's glass pyramid, and of the French movers, shakers and stars who frequent this cafe, make drinking and/or dining here a classic Parisian experience. The perfect spot to refresh the senses during a day at the Louvre.
Charlot, Roi des Coquillages
These Art Deco premises enjoy a regal reputation among Parisians for their trademark seafood platters, but Charlot also does delicious grilled sardines, and bouillabaisse to make any Marseillais homesick. Lunch menus are terrific value.
Chez Léna et Mimille
This intimate but very elegant restaurant has one of the most fabulous terraces in Paris, overlooking a little park with a fountain and comical equestrian statue. And the food is excellent; classic mains with a twist include navarin d'agneau (a kind of lamb stew) and ravioles de romans au beurre basilique (ravioli with basil butter).
Chez Marianne
There's often a wait for a table at Chez Marianne's black-and-white-tiled restaurant space, but the phenomenal mix-and-match platters, with choices including olives, hummus, eggplant and much more, are worth every minute. Otherwise you can pack a picnic from the deli to take to the Place des Vosges, or pick up felafel sandwiches from the takeaway window.
